Perhaps it is not a surprise that I woke up earlier than usual – jet lag can’t be ignored – and so I went for a run along the waterfront at La Jolla.

Even though it was six in the morning, the place was jam-packed with surfers – and one glance at the waves was enough to see why! The water was warm, and the waves six feet high!

I went down later to photograph the waves, and later still to jump into them!